Thread and Needle Size Recommendations for The Techsew 202

Keep in mind that the following information is what I have found that works for me. You may find different preferences that work for you, which is great! There are no hard and fast rules. Use what you have that works for you. 

First, We Get the Thread…

The great thing about working with fur is you don’t need a thick thread on most items. Check out the stitching if you’ve got a fur coat lying around at home. The thread is usually pretty thin. The trick is in the number of stitches per inch, not the strength of the thread itself. 

Additionally, I have found that a thinner thread makes the seam more invisible. No one wants to see a thick threaded seam on their coat, vest, or hat (unless it is a fashion statement with a vibrant color change). Of course, there is an exception to every rule, right? 

Mittens. Mittens are the fur sewing exception when choosing thread size. I like to use a thicker nylon thread for making my mittens. I use a 46# bonded nylon, so there is some abrasion resistance when exposed to the elements while using the mittens. 

One thing I DON’T recommend is using cotton thread for mittens (though it is great for other uses!). When cotton gets wet it deteriorates quickly, and anyone who lives where it snows 4 months out of the year knows your mittens will get wet. 

Oh, and for the fur sewing beginners reading this, you may want to start with a cheaper option. For that, I suggest trying regular polyester home sewing machine thread. Check out a Guterman size Mara 100 polyester, but you may need a larger needle with the larger thread- size 8 to 10. 

Quick disclaimer! Names of thread sizes vary wildly depending on the scale used by the manufacturer. Just be sure to check out the details when you buy. 

Here are some quick tips: 

  • New Bedford Glazed Cotton thread size #120 is very thin, whereas #80 is thicker. 
  • Bonded nylon thread size 46 is thinner than 69 but is still far thicker than the New Bedford Glazed Cotton #80.  

Then, We Set the Needle.

First things first, I want to explain the needle system vs the needle size when it comes to fur sewing and setting up your sewing machine. 

The Needle System is the needle type that will work in your fur sewing machine. Some brands of industrial sewing machines require different needle systems, and home sewing machines use a different needle system as well. Your machine won’t sew properly if you use the wrong needle system. 

Needle Size is the thickness/thinness of the needle itself. Some brands of needles use different reference scales. Below, I will tell you what I use, and it is based on American sizing.

A few things to consider when using your sewing machine and you run into a snag: 

  • Use round point needles - diamond or “leather’ point needles can cut previously sewn threads if you need to sew over the top of a section.
  • Use the smallest needle you can, it will make the strongest seam - larger needles = larger holes and an easier seam to rip.
  • Seeing a lot of skipped stitches? Try a smaller needle with the same size thread and continue to size down the needle until the stitch skipping stops. 

Tips and Tricks for Threading the Needle and Sewing Fur

Ok, readers! Here are a few thread and needle combos I use with my trusty Techsew 202. Again, this works for me. You may find that a different combo works for you. 

Muskrat, mink, fox - Hats, blankets, accessories, repairing hides

Thread:  New Bedford Glazed cotton size #120-#100  from Samuel Bauer

Needle: System 135x5, size 6-7 round point

Coyote, Beaver, Raccoon - Hats, blankets, accessories, repairing hides:

Thread: Regular polyester home sewing machine thread is my favorite; it’s cheap and works well. New Bedford glazed cotton sizes #100-#80 are also great but more expensive. 

Needle: System 135x5, size  8-12

Bison, Bear, Cowhide:

Thread: #46 bonded nylon

Needle: System 135x5 size 12-14


Thread: #46 bonded nylon

Needle: System 135x5 size 9-12, depending on species


Thread: Polyester home sewing machine thread Gutterman Size: Mara 100 polyester

Needle: System 135x5 size 8-12, depending on species

Where to Find out More! 

Alright, friends and fellow sewers! Now you know a little more about me and how I got to where I am today, but there is so much more to turning on the Techsew 202 and running my fur sewing machine with fancy needles and thread. 

Check me out on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok! 

If you want to learn how to sew your own fur, you can purchase patterns and tutorials at Darling Leather And Fur Patterns & Tutorials.


You can also check out my craftsmanship and purchase finished items at  Darling Leather And Fur Shop. You can email here and sign up for email notifications! 

I have an FAQ page and a Custom Order Page where you can find all the answers you seek.

I truly hope this information has been helpful and leads you to success in your own fur sewing endeavors. 

Until next time, 

Happy Sewing! 

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1 comment

That’s helpful info!


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